Characteristics:

At first an idyllic walking tour through the Leiter valley, as far as the Salm Hut. And then, by way of the recently established fixed-rope route, to the Hohenwartscharte – with the Erzherzog Johann Hut and the summit in view.

Requirements:

Experience of walking across steep terrain with crampons, good basic knowledge of crevasse rescue, secured rope techniques and orientation; sure-footedness on the summit ridge. Acclimatisation essential!

Footpath type:

Marked footpath combined with steep glacial sections, and challenging stretches of rock with degree of difficulty III.

Exposure:

Highly exposed on the summit ridge.

Equipment:

Rucksack, alpine boots with ankle support and a good-grip rubber sole, woollen or skiing socks, anorak with a hood (Goretex), waterproofs, cap, gloves, sun glasses (with high-quality UV protection), sun cream, lip protection, spare clothing, water bottle. Safety equipment will be provided by the mountain guide (harness, crampons, rope, etc.).

Map:

Alpine Association map no. 40, "Glocknergruppe"

Huts:

Salm Hut, Erzherzog Johann Hut

History:

Historic route of the first ascent in 1800, as climbed by a roped party consisting of distinguished scientists, mountain pioneers and Heiligenblut mountain guides – and financed by Count Bishop Salm-Reifferscheidt

Description of the tour:

How to get there:

Travel to Heiligenblut
Then go to the Glockner House, taking the Grossglockner Road.

Starting place:

The Glockner House, on the Grossglockner High-Alpine Road

Directions:

- Glockner house – Salm hut (about 3 hrs.)
From the Glockner House go down to the Margaritzen Reservoir (2,010m), and once beyond the reservoir continue steeply uphill for an hour, to the Stockerscharte (2,442m). From there you have a terrific view of both the Glockner Group and the Leiter valley. Then you walk along the Leiter valley as far as the Salm Hut (2,644m). The path rises only modestly, on its way through the high-alpine flora and fauna.

- Salm Hut - Adlersruhe (about 3 ½ hrs.)
From the Salm Hut (2,644m) follow the footpath in the direction of the Erzherzog Johann Hut (Adlersruhe). For about 1 hour you follow a well marked footpath, first to the Hohenwartkees, and then across it in a north-westerly direction and up to a steep rock face. After a short stretch of climbing secured with ropes, you reach the Hohenwartscharte. From here there is the first gorgeous panoramic view towards the north. After the Hohenwartscharte you cross the Hofmannskees and proceed to the Salm Kamp, crossing it to reach Adlersruhe (3,451m).

- Adlersruhe - Grossglockner (about 2 hrs.)
After a stop or an overnight stay at the Erzherzog Johann Hut, the eastern ascent route takes you up to the Saddle. Here the very steep and also sometimes icy Glocknerleitl marks the start of the climbing stretch! You cross the small ridge of the Kleinglockner and then descend to the Glocknerscharte. The crucial climbing section is immediately after the Glocknerscharte. After this spot (degree of difficulty III) nothing stands in the way of that superb summit experience, when you get to set foot on top of the highest mountain in Austria.

 Brochure: 'In safety to the roof of Austria' 878.62 Kb

Descent:

Use the same route as for the ascent